Tiger traction bar experiences ?

[George White]

Traction masters out of california makes Lat traction bar copies-LAT 5 and LAT 6 one is a weld on and one bolt on kit. Thought’s and experiences, ride quality ? Thanks George

• This topic was modified 11 months, 2 weeks ago by George White.

[Paul and Mary Freen]

I was hoping someone with more Tiger experience would answer. I have the bolt on traction masters. I left the front spring clamps somewhat loose (used nylock nuts) to let the front of the traction bar slide instead of stiffening the spring rate. I originally had them clamped tight and the rear suspension was very stiff.

I found they make a little noise. I have not pushed the car hard so I don’t know about the performance benefit with and without the traction bars. I have read the weld in traction bars can rip the weld out. That’s why I went with the bolt on type.

[Kragh Curtis and Jackie Platt]

I have always like the ‘look’ of the traction masters on a Tiger and have had cars with both weld on (longer) and bolt on. Of the two, I think the weld on look the best but not sure the geometry matches same axle swing arc and often see cars where the frame to front weld on mounts for these long traction masters are cracked/damaged (seen several cars with large holes where these fwd long traction bar mounts ‘used’ to be). Also these weld on brackets do stick down forward of front left spring mount and can really take an impact in low ground clearance situations or large pot holes. BUT, I really like the way they look for sure

The bolt on are a little shortern, much easier to install and should prevent some wheel hope (could not hurt) and did I mention the ‘look’ of Tiger traction master is nice.

If running original 50 year old Tiger leaf springs, a valid assumption is that the car has had at least some (maybe several hundreds) hard accelleration events in the past. I have felt best $ and performance on rear suspension is 1st to install a new set of Tiger rear leaf springs (CAT used to sell these, also Dale A that I have used both and like – assume other sources available), 2nd get a good set of rear shocks), 3rd would be to change pan hard rod mounting bracket and/or orientation and many say just get rid of it (Tom Hall has a good relocation kit and information). Then add traction bars (I would vote for bolt on, can’t hurt and look nice) OR for max traction control you must research Dan Walters torque arm setup.

Rambling on, hope this is of some help – I have a set of the long traction bars and mounts if your leaning in that direction

[warren-g]

Dan and I are working on a couple of projects together.One of them is a Torque arm that be I got from him a few years back. IDK what he has laying around but whenever I ask him for anything it’s I got some of those. I’ve had a couple cars with damage from the weld on bars. The surface that the weld on bar attaches is too thin. So if you can weld overhead and do that well it’s still a problem waiting to tear off. 13″ tires and cushy sidewalls can mitigate the harsh ride. As for the panhard bar I like Dan’s “Friends don’t let friends use panhard bars.” Mine had a lowering kit on it and I still find it twitchier on one side when breaking traction..

[Sean Johnson]

I’ve had the weld on type on 2 cars. The first for over 25 years with NO problems. The common complaint is that they tear out where welded to the frame structure. They stiffen up the suspension quite a bit as they basically prevent the front half of the spring from deflecting under hard acceleration. Mine are a modified kit that was sold by Moss for the MGB and feature adjustable front end-links so I can be absolutely sure that the alignment is dead accurate. They are the same overall length as the LAT weld on traction bars.

I have also fit the bolt on version to a couple of customer cars and have noted that they required a spacer to be installed so that the front eye could clear the leaf spring. They should never be installed loose at the front mounting as it completely negates their purpose, which is to prevent the front half of the spring from deflecting.

Something I had to do on all installations was modify the lower spring mounting plate for the u-bolts. While the axle pad is drilled the correct size for the pin in the leaf spring pack, the lower plate hole is often oversized. This can allow the axle and traction bar mounting plate to shift on the spring pack.

I welded up the hole in the lower plates and drilled them to match the round spacer on the spring pack center bolt/pin. This locks the u-bolts so they cannot shift providing a much more secure mounting point for the traction bars, whichever version is chosen.

[warren-g]

Sean the problem with weld ons is…
The metal surface that they get welded to is too thin. Now if you really burn weld deep into the sandwich of metal it may hold together.

[Sean Johnson]

Warren,
exactly! anything worth doing, is best done correctly. welds for suspension work always require a good penetrating weld. As I said, In 25 years I’ve never had any issue with mine, or weld on type traction bars I have installed.

[warren-g]

Yes but there’s the bolt on appeal… Plus the ride on the car suffers. So much that if I’m drinking and driving….
Coffee of course;)
I bring a spare T shirt always… Calpotholeia although we don’t have a monopoly on bad road maintenance…

[George White]

Anyone have any bolt on’s for sale ? I’m guessing traction masters is out of business-they have not answered their phone in over 3 weeks

[Steven Murphy]

Traction Masters is still in business as of this writing and has an online presence selling traction bars for the tiger.

[Clyde and Valerie & Valerie McLaughlin]

your old original springs are NG, traction bars won’t fix, I REPLACED WITH DALE’S spec’d units and removed the noisey weld on bars I had. no wheel hope with 300 hp and much better ride without battoming out over bumps…I don’t do 3k clutch dumps!

[Paul and Mary Freen]

I bought my bolt on traction bars from Sunbeam Specialties.

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