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    • #58388

      With my disassembly and degreasing of the Minx engine bay nearing completion, it looks for sure like ill be needing new engine mounts. Like most things Rootes in this world, finding a simple mount for my Series III minx is less than simple.

      Searches on ebay.co.uk and google.co.uk show a few NOS ones for earlier and later Minx, but none for my Series nor any as reproductions. Mounts are an example of an item that lasted into several ownerships of a car without ever causing an issue, but these ones are sagged downward and have stress tears, etc, likely not great for vibration in the long run. If anyone knows of a source for mounts or rebuilding, please advise me.

      In the mean time, a couple of bboards have cited the use of a high-durometer pourable urethane kit to make your own mounts: Devcon’s "Flexane 80", p/n 15800. Has anyone tried this technique to re-cast/vulcanize your old mounts?

      Just curious.

      David

    • #66420

      A few more photos from the cleaning-restoration-endless joyful hobby project….

      A post-Christmas sale allowed a nice engine hoist and load leveler to join my garage, and I put it to use this evening.

      Having removed the rear axle c/w leaf springs last weekend, the driveshaft simply slides back off the gearbox pinion. I snugged a jackstand up under the tailpiece of the gearbox, using a piece of foam tape between the surfaces, to protect the soft metal of the gearbox. This allowed me to unbolt the rear support saddle from the body (four 1/2" bolts either side) and detach the saddle from the gearbox (one 9/16" bolt per side) and let the gearbox rest on the stand.

      The hoist was positioned as low as possible with the load leveler, centered over the engine. I chose the two valve-head studs on the left side to attach the cleats and the frontmost and rearmost holes on the right vertical face of the head for the other cleats.

      With a touch of tension on the hoist, I removed the remaining 1/2" nuts that secure the mount brackets to the crossmember, needing to remove the delicate AC fuel pump to give better access on the right side.

      The engine will be pulled out next weekend with my son’s help on the jack – I thought I’d show in this second image just how bad the engine mount rubber had become. Like a 55 year old ‘smore….restoring the starter showed me how the pinion was engaging less and less as the years went by. It’s a 1969 Lucas M35J, and a new NOS pinion drive came yesterday to give the starter some new life – faulty engine mounts are a known cause for poor pinion engagement….

      http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p62 … 9iv3fq.jpg

      More photos as things progress.

      David

    • #66422

      Ok, it was another case of, "well, I’m already in this far and have some time this afternoon….why not pull the engine + gearbox out today? Why wait?

      Sure enough, after I detached the leaf springs and tagged all the parts – putting the rear end on a platform dolly and rolled back under the car – I decided the tackle the engine pull solo. This is my 32nd year of wrenching on cars and until now, I haven’t needed to pull an engine, so this was a first. And happy to report, everything went well.

      http://s1159.photobucket.com/user/Woodi … ine%20pull

      Not sure if the Hillman is any different from any of the BMC cars or other British marques, but the engine has to come out with the gearbox as a unit, owing to the lack of a front trans saddle (unlike our American engineering). This is where a load leveller became absolutely critical….the angle of exit was pretty damn steep (see pic). The leveller was right at the end of the travel and I still needed to tilt the load further to have the engine sump and output pinion clear their surfaces at the same time. Definitely going to pull the sump before I reinstall – clearing the bonnet lock panel was one thing but the shift selector and output pinion assembly was then hanging up on the steering cross-rod. Man is this assembly long.

      Having the car up on jackstands didn’t help, simply adding to the travel needed on the hoist, but all worked out fine. It’s resting on wooden blocks, awaiting a rolling platform being made tomorrow (metal casters, plywood, 2×4"s, etc)…..

      Pulling the engine only to scrub and degrease (solvent then TSP) ready for the Alpine Green paint I’ve used thus far.

      David

    • #66423

      I’ve pulled a few Alpine and Tiger engines and it is lots easier to drop the front crossmember and take the engine and trans out as a unit from the bottom. I bet a Minx would be the same! Eric

    • #66426

      Thanks for the reply.

      I think you may have posted a great youtube video on this type of removal – and thanks to whomever did if it wasn’t you.

      My Minx is already up ~12" off the floor as part of the undercarriage cleaning, brakes, painting, etc. Even if back down on the ground I’m not sure I’d have enough angle to the have the head and sump clear the front body at the same time – these engines are unusually tall and the body is somewhat low, so I felt safer stripping out the engine bay (radiator for sure and all surrounding assemblies, generator, starter, etc). and yanking the engine out c/w gearbox.

      Man, life is easier when you have a hoist……

      David

    • #66443

      Lots has been done on the Minx restoration since I last posted.

      While I did source some generic "Flexane" urethane to rebuild the engine mounts, I decided that the job is better left to the experts. Few companies will rebuild mounts anymore, especially for orphan cars from the Rootes Group.

      Having worked with them in the past, I sent my old ones to Then and Now Automotive in Weymouth, MA and in less than 10 days in total, I received them and was thrilled at the quality of rebuilding. They are tops when you need you mounts done – and can’t find reasonable replacements.

      Total cost including shipping back and forth (USPS): $110 for the pair.

      See new photos here:

      http://s1159.photobucket.com/user/Woodi … e%20mounts

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