Edelbrock F4B troubles

[ca-mtn-cat]

Hi All,

I need your help. I rebuilt my 260 using an Edelbrock performer intake. The engine started and ran fine. I then pulled the intake and replaced it with an original Edelbrock F4B. The intake sat down fine and I torqued the bolts to 21 ft lbs. All appeared fine. Upon checking I found the end gaskets didn’t compress. I can push them completely in and out of the valley. (It’s not just and issue of them moving out of place). Anyone have any ideas? Does anyone know the angles of the intakes runners so I can check them? They don’t appear to have been machined but I’ll double check if anyone can provide the specs. Any suggestions would help. Thanks in advance for your time and insight.

Hap & Patti Hazard

[ca-mtn-cat]

Further information, I unbolted the F4B intake, removed the gaskets and checked the angles of the heads compared to the intake. they match. However, when I checked the gap for the ends of the valley I found a 1/4″ gap. I then placed the performer intake on the engine and found NO gap. I therefore I believe I found the problem. Does anyone know what gives with this manifold? Does anyone have a cure? I’m afraid to use two end gaskets for fear the the runners won’t compress enough for a good seal. HELP!!!

Hap & Patti Hazard

[Bud & Donna Elliott]

Toss the cork end gaskets in the trash and use a nice fat bead of silicone.
I believe this is addressed on the Tigers United web site. I’ve heard tales of folks trashing a perfectly good manifold by trying to torque it tight enough to seal the end gaskets.

[cleandan]

Here are some things to check before intake use (F4B). Remove the intake, clean all mounting surfaces perfectly, check for any obstructions (dents, dings, somewhat pulled threads, junk on surface etc) Install side gaskets and place intake on heads with four bolts just to hold it in place, no real torque. Now carefully inspect the gap of the side gaskets, intake, and heads. Make sure the gaskets and head, and intake surfaces are parallel both front to back and top to bottom. Use a feeler gauge, flashlight, and mirror to do all this. While doing this check if the ports match up well. This can be done with marking compound, clay, talc and grease, etc. If the intake sides and head surfaces line up they will seal and you can use the intake. To install the intake use good clean side gaskets like normal, but have the front and real valley surfaces (block and intake) ULTRA clean. Lay a thick enough bead of sealer where the end gaskets USED to go, to make the gap and carefully install the intake. When using the sealer bead instead of end gaskets you must lay the intake basically perfectly the first time…it is pretty easy so don’t worry. Install the intake, torque to spec, and let sit for at least 16 hours, 24 is better, to ensure full cure of the sealer. Then run you motor and check for leaks like normal. When you have no leaks you are good to go. I have run MANY intakes with the sealer instead of end seals, and know of many other engine guys who do the same. Modern silicons work great for this but I prefer “The Right Stuff” for this task…it REALLY works great. Good luck.

[ca-mtn-cat]

Cleandan,

Thanks for the great and very detailed information. I’ve done as you suggested and believe I’ve got it. As the car is still being restored it will be a while before I’m ready to fire it again. (Several parts are out being coated).

Hap & Patti Hazard

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