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    • July 16, 2011 at 9:12 pm #57735
      claf

        While I try to understand the relationship of the loop in the tach wire to the connection I have another easy question. What Is the easiest sequence to assemble the fuel tank and the connecting pipes ? Again, I didn’t disassemble this car and the workshop manual leaves a lot to be desired. Thanks, Bob

      • July 17, 2011 at 2:06 am #64151
        alpine-64
        Participant

          Bob,

          I havent done the tanks personally, and depending on how assembled the car is will make a difference, but i believe the rear cross over pipe can be the real pain along with the joining sections to the saddle tanks. If you do a google search of the SAOCA board for tank removal I think it was Jim Stone who gave a good run down of his process and may have posted some pictures.

        • July 17, 2011 at 3:11 am #64152
          Bob and Jean Webb
          Participant

            if i’m removing the tanks i usually remove the trunk springs and then remove the bolts in the wheel well, then remove the bracket at the back. then i loosen the clamps at the tanks and then remove the tank, leaving the hoses on the cross tube. on the right side you need to remove the gas cap and the rubber filler hose to remove the tanks. then loosen the clamps holding the angled tubes and remove them. to remove the cross tube you need to loosen and remove the gas line fitting. then lift it out. we always replace the hose since you need to do some prying if they are the original hoses.

          • July 19, 2011 at 1:58 pm #64154
            Robert and Mariet Jaarsma
            Participant

              As the manual usually says, just the reverse of taking it out.
              I lay the cross tube in loosel then the tubing and elbows, followed by the tanks.
              Make sure you have the cross balancing vent tube in beforehand, the tube which connectes both tanks on top.
              The hardest part is to get this vent tube and the filler tube connected and tightened withe the filler cap. Tighten all tubes and connect the fuel line to the pump next.
              Robert

            • July 20, 2011 at 1:09 am #64158
              claf

                Very interesting Robert. I’m not sure I have a balance tube in the pile of crap that came with the car. What is the approx length of that tube. Is at straight (mostly) and what diameter? Once I know what it looks like then I can check out the piles and boxes. Everything else you mentioned I have identified so I’m mostly good to go. Thanks, Bob

              • July 20, 2011 at 9:11 pm #64161
                Joel & Karen Griffin
                Participant

                  And replace all the wire hose clamps with lined one’s !

                • July 29, 2011 at 8:30 pm #64175
                  Robert and Mariet Jaarsma
                  Participant

                    Hi "CLAF",

                    That balancing tube is about 7.5 feet long and about 1/2" in ID, 3/4" OD. If you find the hose piece coneting the fuel lid with the tank, you will see the side port. It is a small side appen metal connector.
                    Robert
                    PS See if you can obtain a parts book. That will help you tremendously!

                  • July 30, 2011 at 1:25 am #64176
                    claf

                      Thanks to all the people who responded. I found the balance pipe, it was still in the car but I didn’t recognize it until it was described. I now have all the parts. Is there a way to test the fuel gauge sender before getting all this stuff bolted in ? I have a multi-meter but have no idea what the ohm readings should be between empty and full . Also is the rubber connector on the fuel inlet side available ? Mine "looks" ok but probably should replace it while it’s all apart. Bob

                    • July 30, 2011 at 3:17 am #64177
                      Jim Stone
                      Participant

                        I don’t have the answer on how to test the float, but do have a suggestion for you. When you are reassembling everything, put a dab of white paint about 1" from the ends of the connecting points on the tanks and the cross-over tube. (I am just guessing the 1" measurement from memory, but the exact amount should be pretty obvious once you install the tanks, lay the tube in place and hold the connector hoses in place.) The hoses are a bear to get to slide far enough up to seal completely and too thick to be able to feel how much they are over the pipes. That drop of paint will give you a good indication of when enough is enough and prevent leaks.

                        Oh, and is this the rubber connectors you are looking for: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sunbeam- … ccessories? If so, they are readily available from either Sunbeam Specialties or, as in the case of this auction, Classic Sunbeam.

                      • July 31, 2011 at 2:05 am #64180
                        Jim Stone
                        Participant
                          quote alpine_64:

                          Bob,

                          I havent done the tanks personally, and depending on how assembled the car is will make a difference, but i believe the rear cross over pipe can be the real pain along with the joining sections to the saddle tanks. If you do a google search of the SAOCA board for tank removal I think it was Jim Stone who gave a good run down of his process and may have posted some pictures.

                          Actually, my discussion was more about the process of cleaning and lining the tanks, although there was some good discussion on the latter. http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/show … php?t=8845 The thread you are probably thinking of is this one: http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/show … php?t=5559 No pictures in either, though. 😀

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