- This topic has 22 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated January 23, 2009 at 11:01 pm by
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OK,
May last year the alpine came off the road with a broken tooth on 2nd.. good time to fit that OD gearbox.. I fly OS 2 days later.. Tiger arrives a couple of weeks later.. a few more trips OS.. work.. other life issues 15 months of registration and insurance latter.. im getting it back on the road (could have paid someone to do it for what its cost in unused rego and insurance but whats the fun in that?)
Anyway.. some pics of the pull-down.. hopefully hoist the engine this weekend and then fiddle round a little.. then on the road again.
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/567333862WEiBKr
Another weekend down and the engine and trans are out.. lots of swearing, levering and more swearing..
some pics…
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/567333862WEiBKr
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I didnt have one, so I bought this solid state module on ebay that makes any relay a latching relay. It turns ground off and on with a pulsed switch. If you have a constant voltage to the relay, it will turn on and latch, turn of when pulsed again or interupted by the reverse switch…..it woked pretty good at 1st, but now it has malfunctioned. I havent found the time to figure the problem out yet, maybe I need to mount the relay isolated…or it is a wireing problem, but I think it will work…..old style latching relays are hard to find….Mike S.
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Hi Mike,
There are a few ways that you could wire the relay/solenoid. I don’t know if they are still available, but a flip/flop type relay that is similar to what you described. You energise it momentarily to latch it and then energise again to unlatch the relay. The other option is to use two relays to do the same thing. Your problem may be that your switch on the gearbox is out of adjustment or failed and hopefully not the solenoid. I’m not sure what the solenoid draws (current wise), but the contacts may have burnt out too.
Regards, Robin.
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Robin, I have been sidetrack refurbishing the seats…They are finally done and I am working on the center consul….After that I will tackle the wireing and OD selenoid issue……After 15 years I finally once again have it tagged and insured …legal to drive, so I am eager to start doing that….I may have lost voltage to the latching module, ot it may be a grounding issue….I will figure it our…Thanks for the tip on flip flop relays, will google it and see what turns up or switching to two relays is also a good idea…I love the overdrive, so it MUST work….I even have a spare rebuilt OD unit on the shelf…Mike
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quote mikeflbmer:Robin, I have been sidetrack refurbishing the seats…They are finally done and I am working on the center consul….After that I will tackle the wireing and OD selenoid issue……After 15 years I finally once again have it tagged and insured …legal to drive, so I am eager to start doing that….I may have lost voltage to the latching module, ot it may be a grounding issue….I will figure it our…Thanks for the tip on flip flop relays, will google it and see what turns up or switching to two relays is also a good idea…I love the overdrive, so it MUST work….I even have a spare rebuilt OD unit on the shelf…Mike
Hi Mike,
Good to hear that you are nearly back on the road. I went to visit my Alpine yesterday, as it has been a bit neglected having a Tiger around. Hopefully that will change, as I have a real soft spot for the Alpine. It has not been started for months and it kicked over with some pumps of the pedal, no troubles at all (I could not do that with the Tiger).
Regards, Robin.
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quote gtsmrt:Hi Michael,
How is your Alpine project going? Is everything back in and running yet or have you had some problems?
Regards, Robin.
No troubles.. just taking my time. I have the gearbox, bellhousing off and i took off the clutch and flywheel on the weekend.. i figured while i have everything out i may aswell play a bit more.. so i will be owrking the flywheel a little more.. take some more weight off it then rebal;ance it. I should be ready to put everything back in in the next few weeks. Just debating if i put the DCOE’s back on to get it running .. or try and fit the DGV on stright off.. the only real concern is the rear nut that secures the manifold on the DCOEs is amazingly difficult to acess.. both putting on and off.. and not something i want to have to do more than needed
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quote gtsmrt:Hi Michael,
Why not, while everything is apart. It is probably not a bad idea to go back to the DCOE’s as your setup is sorted, while your DGV will require re-jetting to suit your engine. How much can you safely take off the flywheel and what is the benefit?
Regards, Robin.
The DGV jetting should be fine.. but the floats might need adjusting for the electric pump.. and i need to make a linkage.
Not sure what a safe amount off the fly is… but you dont want to be to drastic or they can become dangerous..you also dont want them to light on a street engine or the revs drop off to fast and they are a pain to drive round town. Just enough off takes some stress off the driveline and gives it snappier performance.
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A little more achieved over the weekend. Pulled the bellhousing, then decided why not play with the flywheel while so much is off? Clutch was still like new.. flywheel has now been worked.
i followed the guidelines here:
Though we were unable to secure it to work it to the 238.76mm dia.. but i did go to 235.5.. result 10kgs down to 8.. which should make a difference.. but have to rebalance it now.
engine looks small without all the fun bits attached,.
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As some of you will have followed i have been replacing my gearbox.. and while in that process am also going from my lovely twin DCOE setup to an uglier, more economical DGV setup.
I had a carb on a ported S3 manifold.. but in my parts found the later better flowing manifold.. i think these were on scepters and gazelles. I had it hydroblasted and will now polish it.. though the hydroblast makes it look like new (and like its been coated) the casting marks will eventually trap dirt again.
here are some pics of the manifold for those wondering the difference.. and to show what a nice job hydroblasting does (as a side note it was a very dull day)
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quote mikeflbmer:I am still sorting mine and installing twin DGV Webers of a Datsun 240Z….they are 32 /36 ‘s and should give decent economy as well as performance….using special made manifold…Mike
Hi Mike,
Do you have any pictures of your manifold? Have you worked out the linkage yet? I would be interested in taking a look.
Regards, Robin.
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I havent figured how to post pictures on this forum, but here is a Link at … photo buchttp://s721.photobucket.com/albums/ww218/mikeflbmer/ ket…….It was made from a single downdraft weber intake….I am worried about hood clearance with the Air filters….trying to find low profile ones, would hate add a scoop to hood. And no I havent started to try to figure linkage yet…Mike Not sure that link worked , lets try again http://s721.photobucket.com/albums/ww218/mikeflbmer/
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Ok,
A little more progress this weekend.. flywheel and clutch are back on the motor, i have some pics of the lightend fly.. the bellhousing and clutch arm are on the ‘box and later this week will join it all together and have a stab at getting it all back in. Also i picked up the manifold and header tank after having them professionaly polished.. check out the manifold.. hydroblasting cleaned it nicely.. but this is super nice. The guy ground the vac port off for me and did a really ncie job.. some pics for all:
all pics:
http://community.webshots.com/album/567 … r?start=36
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Ok.. update.. its all together and back in the car… well it was…
I had an engine balance bar this time to put the motor back in.. man that makes it easy.. yuo just move the pitching point as needed. Got it all in.. together.. wired up.. and yeay.. intake leak at #4.. so headers are off.. manifold off and header tank off to change the gasket.. bugger.. i was saving the new one for when i put the DGV on.. anyway.. photos:
More pics:
http://community.webshots.com/album/567 … r?start=48
http://community.webshots.com/album/567 … r?start=60
http://community.webshots.com/album/567 … r?start=72 -
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