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	<title>Tigers East/Alpines East &#187; Wheels</title>
	<atom:link href="http://teae.org/category/tech-tips/wheels/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://teae.org</link>
	<description>Dedicated to the preservation, restoration and enjoyment of all Rootes Group Vehicles</description>
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		<title>Steel Wheel Interchange</title>
		<link>http://teae.org/steel-wheel-interchange/</link>
		<comments>http://teae.org/steel-wheel-interchange/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Mar 2009 22:48:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Alpines]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Parts Interchange]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tech Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tigers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wheels]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://teae.org/cars/?p=558</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Steel wheels exchange info and table


Related posts:<ol><li><a href='http://teae.org/can-i-use-capri-wheels-on-my-sunbeam/' rel='bookmark' title='Permanent Link: Can I use Capri Wheels on My Sunbeam?'>Can I use Capri Wheels on My Sunbeam?</a></li>
<li><a href='http://teae.org/front-wheel-bearings/' rel='bookmark' title='Permanent Link: Front Wheel Bearings'>Front Wheel Bearings</a></li>
<li><a href='http://teae.org/shock-absorber-interchange/' rel='bookmark' title='Permanent Link: Shock Absorber Interchange'>Shock Absorber Interchange</a></li>
</ol>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p></p><p style="text-align: right;">First printed 7/87</p>
<p><strong>Question</strong>: What other car wheels fit a Tiger or Alpine?</p>
<p><strong>Answer</strong>: The stock Tiger came with 13&#8243; rims that were 4.5&#8243; wide with a 4&#215;4.25&#8243; bolt circle. A number of cars have wheels with this same bolt circle:</p>
<table style="margin-bottom:15px" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Ford Fairmont</td>
<td>78-86</td>
<td>Mustang (exc. SVO)</td>
<td>74-86</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Thunderbird</td>
<td>80-86</td>
<td>Pinto</td>
<td>71-80</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Fiesta</td>
<td>78-85</td>
<td>Escort</td>
<td>80-86</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Mercury Mercur</td>
<td>85-86</td>
<td>Zepher, Z-7</td>
<td>78-86</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Cougar, XR7</td>
<td>80-86</td>
<td>Mercur XR4TI</td>
<td>82-86</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Lynx, LN7</td>
<td>82-86</td>
<td>Topaz</td>
<td>82-86</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Capri, Capri H</td>
<td>71-86</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>Of course, bolt circle is not the only criterion. Some of these are not 13&#8243; wheels (although some 14&#8243; and the Mustang TRX wheels have been used on some Sunbeams). A major consideration is the wheel&#8217;s offset. The Tiger requires a relative large (negative) offset. This means that the centerline of the rim (bead-to-bead center) is inboard of the mounting plane of the wheel. Too much (negative) offset (as in wheels designed for front wheel drive cars) will cause rubbing of the tire on suspension components. Too little (negative) or, even worse, (positive) offset, will move the wheel too far outboard causing the tire to rub on the fender.</p>
<p><img src="http://www.teae.org/tech_tips/tips/images/s16.jpg" alt="" width="250" height="168" align="left" />A lot of the wheels that are on Tigers today are no longer made (eg. LAT-9, LAT-70 and American Racing Libre). Panasport wheels make six inch wide wheels for the front and seven inch wide for the rear with the correct offsets to help even out the front and rear tracks. The most common inexpensive solution is a set of Capri or Pinto wheels. They are 0.5&#8243; wider than stock with appropriate offsets. You may need a spacer on the rear for the wheels to clear the brake drums. One caution, stamped steel wheels designed for compact cars have been known to fail under hard use and we don&#8217;t recommend these be used for hard driving conditions. Also, some wheels were designed for stud sizes larger than the (7/16-20) used on the Alpine and Tiger. When using these wheels you must be sure to use a lug nut that properly contacts its tapered seat. If a lug nut is too small there is a high risk that the wheel will be dislodged.</p>
<p><strong>Editors note: </strong>The words and dimensions in italics were changed from the original because of errors.</p>


<p>Related posts:<ol><li><a href='http://teae.org/can-i-use-capri-wheels-on-my-sunbeam/' rel='bookmark' title='Permanent Link: Can I use Capri Wheels on My Sunbeam?'>Can I use Capri Wheels on My Sunbeam?</a></li>
<li><a href='http://teae.org/front-wheel-bearings/' rel='bookmark' title='Permanent Link: Front Wheel Bearings'>Front Wheel Bearings</a></li>
<li><a href='http://teae.org/shock-absorber-interchange/' rel='bookmark' title='Permanent Link: Shock Absorber Interchange'>Shock Absorber Interchange</a></li>
</ol></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Tire Basics</title>
		<link>http://teae.org/tire-basics/</link>
		<comments>http://teae.org/tire-basics/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Apr 2006 20:59:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Wheels]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://teae.org/?p=1918</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[All about tires


Related posts:<ol><li><a href='http://teae.org/%e2%80%a6and-it-worked-for-me/' rel='bookmark' title='Permanent Link: …And it Worked for Me!'>…And it Worked for Me!</a></li>
</ol>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p></p><p style="text-align: right;">By Ron Fraser</p>
<p style="text-align: right;">First published in <em>Rootes Review</em>, 2007</p>
<p>Here are some basic facts about tires that we should all keep in mind, not only for fuel efficiency but for safety as well.</p>
<h3>Tire pressure:</h3>
<p>Correct tire pressure obviously has an effect not only on tire wear but also fuel economy. The proper tire pressure for the Tiger running bias ply tires is 26 psi front, 32 psi rear. Today’s radial tires have a maximum load rating on the sidewalls, and the correct pressure for these tires is 35 psi. I prefer to inflate radials to 32 psi front and rear; most manufacturers also recommend this pressure.</p>
<p>There are also tires with a maximum load rating at 44 psi, but there are no published recommended pressures for them. OK, let’s throw a little math at this and get a proportional pressure.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">32/35 = X/44	X = 44(32/35) = 40.2 psi</p>
<p>I have this type of tire on my 91 Ford Escort and if I put 40 psi in the tires I can feel every little pebble and grain of sand through the steering and suspension. For my car, 38 psi is more comfortable; a less harsh ride. You can always experiment with the tire pressure, but I recommend at least 38 psi for these higher rated tires.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Higher tire pressure = less rolling resistance = more MPG</strong></p>
<p>There are limits to this theory. Very high pressures create adverse wear patterns, as well as reduced braking efficiency. It only makes sense that the smaller the footprint on the road the less effective the brakes will be. One certainly does not want to exceed the manufacturer’s recommended maximum pressure.</p>
<h3>Breaking in your tires:</h3>
<p>Did you know there is a break in period for tires? This is new to me. I’m well aware of heat cycling tires to toughen them, but not a break in period. It is recommended that you drive new tires easy for the first 500 miles to get the release agents they use during manufacturing worn off the tread. Tires can feel greasy while driving during this period.</p>
<h3>Tire Age:</h3>
<p>There is a date code molded into every tire and you should know how to read the code. Note that most tire shops will not guarantee tires longer than 5 years. Additionally as tires age the rubber tends to crack; sidewall surface cracks are generally OK but deeper cracks in the sidewall or the tread can be dangerous.</p>
<h3>Speed vs. tire pressure:</h3>
<p>Did you know that the faster you drive the more tire air pressure you need? Your tires will heat up with distance driven, so be careful to have the correct cold air pressure in your tires.</p>
<h3>Reference:</h3>
<p><a href="http://www.tirerack.com">www.tirerack.com </a></p>
<p>Look under: Products / Tires / Tire Tech</p>
<p>Tire Rack has a lot of excellent information on tires and wheels. You can navigate their site from the starting point listed above.</p>


<p>Related posts:<ol><li><a href='http://teae.org/%e2%80%a6and-it-worked-for-me/' rel='bookmark' title='Permanent Link: …And it Worked for Me!'>…And it Worked for Me!</a></li>
</ol></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Bulletin 60-185: Alpine Mud and Water Entry Into Front Hub Bearings</title>
		<link>http://teae.org/bulletin-60-185/</link>
		<comments>http://teae.org/bulletin-60-185/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jun 1960 15:36:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Eric Smyder</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[1960]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Alpines]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wheels]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://teae.org/cars/?p=1210</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[NUMBER:60-185
DATE: June l, 1960
GROUP: STEERING
MODEL: SUNBEAM ALPINE
SUBJECT: MUD AND WATER ENTRY INTO FRONT HUB BEARINGS
TO ALL ROOTES GROUP DEALERS
This may be caused by a defective hub oil seal or by a damaged `O&#8217; ring seal (Part No. 9107088) on the conical seat of wire wheel type hubs.
HUB OIL SEAL
From Chassis No. B9006126 onwards a double [...]


Related posts:<ol><li><a href='http://teae.org/front-wheel-bearings/' rel='bookmark' title='Permanent Link: Front Wheel Bearings'>Front Wheel Bearings</a></li>
<li><a href='http://teae.org/alpine-front-oil-seal-revisited/' rel='bookmark' title='Permanent Link: Alpine Front Oil Seal Revisited'>Alpine Front Oil Seal Revisited</a></li>
<li><a href='http://teae.org/bulletin-67-6/' rel='bookmark' title='Permanent Link: Bulletin 67-6: Borg-Warner 35 Front Pump Oil Leak'>Bulletin 67-6: Borg-Warner 35 Front Pump Oil Leak</a></li>
</ol>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p></p><p>NUMBER:60-185</p>
<p>DATE: June l, 1960</p>
<p>GROUP: STEERING</p>
<p>MODEL: SUNBEAM ALPINE</p>
<p>SUBJECT: MUD AND WATER ENTRY INTO FRONT HUB BEARINGS</p>
<p>TO ALL ROOTES GROUP DEALERS</p>
<p>This may be caused by a defective hub oil seal or by a damaged `O&#8217; ring seal (Part No. 9107088) on the conical seat of wire wheel type hubs.</p>
<p>HUB OIL SEAL</p>
<p>From Chassis No. B9006126 onwards a double lip oil seal has been fitted. The Part No. of the seal is 1206002 and it must be very carefully pressed into position as shown in the adjoining illustration. Before replacing the front hub ensure the distance piece on which the seal rotates is free from burrs. An end float of .000&#8243;/.004&#8243; (0/.11mm) must exist after replacing the front hub.</p>
<p>&#8216;O&#8217; RING</p>
<p>Care must be taken to ensure that when removing or fitting wire type road wheels that the `O&#8217; ring is not damaged. The slightest damage to the &#8216;O&#8217; ring requires it to be renewed.</p>
<p>Kindly bring the above to the attention of all concerned.</p>
<p>ROOTES MOTORS INCORPORATED</p>
<p>F.J. McGettrick<br />
Manager<br />
Wholesale Parts &amp; Service Depts</p>


<p>Related posts:<ol><li><a href='http://teae.org/front-wheel-bearings/' rel='bookmark' title='Permanent Link: Front Wheel Bearings'>Front Wheel Bearings</a></li>
<li><a href='http://teae.org/alpine-front-oil-seal-revisited/' rel='bookmark' title='Permanent Link: Alpine Front Oil Seal Revisited'>Alpine Front Oil Seal Revisited</a></li>
<li><a href='http://teae.org/bulletin-67-6/' rel='bookmark' title='Permanent Link: Bulletin 67-6: Borg-Warner 35 Front Pump Oil Leak'>Bulletin 67-6: Borg-Warner 35 Front Pump Oil Leak</a></li>
</ol></p>]]></content:encoded>
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