Bob Wilson asked:

What are the USA part number equivalents to British part numbers for light bulbs, primarily the turn signal lamps? Help!

Tiger Tom replied:

Bob, I am not aware of any interchange list. I’ve seen some references in years past of a lamp or two but I a not aware of a list of popular lamp types.

Related posts:

1. Bulletin 68-13: Fluctuation of Ammeter Needle/Ignition Warning Light

by Chris Barker
originally reprinted with permission from THE ALPINE HORN, United Kingdom in 8/85

If things have worked out as Paul Norton and I intended this article should accompany one by him on the intimate details on electronic revcounters. He will tell you all about resistors and thermistors. I am going to show you how to check whether they are all telling the truth.

It’s human nature to believe implicitly what instruments say (except perhaps the oil pressure gauge), and I have met owners afraid to go above 70 mph because “the revs are on the limit”. Unless you’re still in 2nd or someone has fitted a 9: 1 axle this isn’t possible, and it is more likely that the speedometer is reading slow or the rev counter is fast. If you still have your license it’s probably the latter!

There are only two problems in checking a rev counter. The first is giving it some revs (pulses) to count; the second is to know how many. I had vaguely thought about using a thing called a signal generator, but these are not found in many peoples’ toolboxes and I am not sure whether one would work anyway.

No matter, a much easier way is to setup a real ignition system on the bench. Find an old coil and distributor, any will do but there is less math involved if it’s for a 4-cylinder engine. The only other things needed are an electric drill, an electric light and some way of cutting out sunlight. One easy way is to do it at night.

In case you have not already guessed, the drill is to spin the distributor. A variable speed drill is best, a two speed one will do and you can do something with just one speed. A piece of wood held against the side of chuck will give a fine speed adjustment. To join the drill to the distributor find a 4″ metal tube as big as will fit in the chuck. Cut a slot in the other end and spread this end enough to fit round the distributor drive. It should not be a tight fit. You now have to clamp everything together. I found a Black &Decker Workmate ideal. You should now have some revs to count.

The next step is to remove your rev counter. The earth connection is on one of the knurled fixing nuts and the live feed is on the only spade connector. The bulb holder pulls out completely and this only leaves the sensing coil wound through a nylon block on the back of the instrument. Make a careful note of how it’s fitted and remove the small knurled nut and steel bridge piece. The nylon block is part of the loom and stays in the car.

Wire up the system per your car wiring diagram. Arrange a turn of wire (without a nylon block) correctly under the steel bridge piece. All that is left now is to count the revs you are putting in and this is the clever bit.

You will need a patterned disc on the rotor arm. This is cut from a white card and is about 75mm (3 inches) diameter. You can mark a ring on it with four equally spaced black segments. It’s attached to the rotor arm with a dab of glue. When seen with fluorescent light powered by AC mains each ring will appear “stopped” at a particular speed. In this country, with 50 Hz mains the formula is: “stopped” speed = 12000/number of segments so rings with 3, 4, 6, and 12 segments will give you 4000, 3000, 2000, and 1000 rpm. For 60 Hz mains multiply these speeds by 1.2. (Editors note: For 60Hz, this will give you 4800, 3600, 2400 and 1200 rpm.)

If you have only a fixed speed drill choose the number of marks so that the “stopped” speed is just a little lower that twice your Drill’s speed e.g. for a 1300 rpm drill mark 5 segments and calibrate at 2400 rpm by applying a slight brake to the drill chuck.

I found that I only needed to alter the tachometer’s electrical adjuster to get an accurate instrument. It is best not to touch all those fine balance springs if possible. On the SV unit the adjuster is inside the back, between the bulb position and the nearest threaded stud. It’s black plastic, about 1/2″ in diameter. This may all sound a bit hairy but in fact it’s quite simple and very accurate so have a go.

The strobe method also has potential for checking cable driven speedometers and rev counters but you would need either a reversing drill or a means of reversing the direction of drive. One way would be to have a friction wheel on your drill driving a second wheel that carries the strobe disc and drives the cable the right way. For a speedometer the turns per mile figure on the face would also be the rpm for 60 mph and “stopped” rpm = 6000/# (7200/# in US) of segments.

Finally, to those curious enough to check my formulae I do not know why the disc only appears “stopped” at twice the speed one would expect but it does. I have allowed for the distributor only turning at half the engine speed so that is not the answer.

Even more finally, I haven’t tried it but I suspect that touching the H.T. coil terminal would not be pleasant so keep your fingers away when running!

Related posts:

1. Securing Side Chrome Trim to a MKI Tiger
2. Distributor Tech Tip
3. Sunbeam Tachometers

Author unknown

My 1965 Tiger Mk I locks in gear, the shifter won’t move. It usually happens in city traffic when shifting up and down several times. All at once it just locks up, but I believe it’s almost always in 3rd gear. I usually just coast to a stop with clutch in or continue in third until the engine dies. If you just wait a while, jiggle it a lot, and oh yes, cuss a lot, it magically comes loose again until it happens again. I cannot reproduce the lock up by trying, so I can’t show it to a mechanic. Examination eventually located the culprit; the gate mechanism at bottom of shift lever.

This gate mechanism has slots that require a pin to be properly aligned (as determined by shift lever position) causing the selected lever to be actuated. This gate is what forces us to shift in the classic “H” pattern. However, we are sloppy shifters and shift like a “Z’ when going from second to third. The end result is a worn and sloppy gate which allows the shift lever to actually try and select two gears or not completely disengage one gear before going into the next gear. Ok, so what’s the fix?

Simple, sort of.

• Remove shifter.
• See other tech tips.
• Send to a repair specialist like Dan Williams in Franklin North Carolina.
• Or, disassemble yourself, repair the gates, replace the pin and install new bushings most worn parts are available if ordered from local Ford dealers.

Related posts:

1. Rebuilding the Tiger HEH-E Transmission with RUG-E Gears
2. Tiger Shifter Removal
3. Manual Transmission

NUMBER: 67-44
DATE: 3-31-67
GROUP: Engine
SUBGROUP: Oil Pressure Relief Valve

MODELS: Alpine V, Minx VI & Arrow
SUBJECT: New Oil Pressure Relief Valve

A new steel relief valve assembly was introduced in production from the Chassis Numbers shown below, having a thick fibre sealing washer under the head of the relief valve.

Alpine V – B.395 012220

Minx VI – B.006 045731

Arrow – B.051 006069

Should you encounter complaints of oil leaks from this fibre washer, it is recommended that the existing washer, approximately 1/8″ thick, is replaced by a thinner washer, 1/16″ part number 5058200. After fitting new washer, tighten relief valve to 15 ft. lbs. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

Check for any signs of damage to the threads of the relief valve and body; replace where necessary. This new washer will be introduced in production in the near future.

The new valve can be installed on up-to models by including the filter base, part number 5058202.

T. H. BULLARD
Manager – Service & Parts

Related posts:

1. Bulletin 66-6: 1725cc Oil Pressure Relief Valve Change
2. Bulletin 68-3: Alpine, Imp, Minx, Arrow Cylinder Head Bolt Tightness
3. Bulletin 67-62: Alpine V & Arrow Change of Float Material In Carb

NUMBER: 67-42
DATE: 3-30-67
GROUP: Engine
SUBGROUP: Oil Filter Line

MODELS: Tiger
SUBJECT: Modified Oil Filter Line Attaching Point

A new tie down clip has been introduced in Production to prevent possible rubbing of the oil filter line against the steering column. This change is effective from chassis number B382-001094.

It is recommended that the clip, part number 9179051, be fitted as illustrated in Fig. 1.

T. H. Bullard
Manager — Service & Parts

Related posts:

1. High Pressure Oil Line Failure
2. Bulletin 67-23: Tiger 260 Fan Blade Clearance
3. Bulletin 67-32: Alpine V & Minx IV Modified Master Cylinder Main

NUMBER: 67-32
DATE: 2-22-67
GROUP: Clutch
SUBGROUP: Master Cylinder

MODELS: Alpine V & Minx IV
SUBJECT: Modified Master Cylinder Main Cup

A modified master cylinder main cup is now available which will correct problems of periodic loss of clutch in heavy traffic.

The new main cup can be identified by its manufacturer’s number 3842-424 which is on the cup.

All master cylinders, part number 1223548, and the new overhaul kits, part number 5044629, currently supplied include the latest cup, part number 5044628.

T.H. Bullard
Manager – Service & Parts

Related posts:

1. Bulletin 68-3: Alpine, Imp, Minx, Arrow Cylinder Head Bolt Tightness
2. Big Bore Clutch Master Cylinder
3. Big Bore Clutch Master Cylinder

NUMBER: 67-28
DATE: 2-13-67
GROUP: Body
SUBGROUP: Windshield Water Leaks

MODELS: Alpine V & Tiger 260
SUBJECT: Windshield Water Leaks

As a result of a recent investigation of windshield water leaks, it has been established that, in the majority of cases, leakage was due to an inadequate seal between the windshield frame and the ‘A’ post trim which carries the weatherstrip to the door seal. Before carrying out any windshield removal, it is recommended that the following procedure be put into effect:

1. Remove the seven screws which secure the ‘A’ post weatherstrip to the ‘A’ pot trim plate.
2. Carefully remove the weather strip and clean off the ‘A’ post trim.
3. Drill out the two attaching rivets.
4. Remove the ‘A’ post trim plate. Clean off any existing sealer and apply an adequate amount of sealing compound to the windshield frame.
5. Replace the trim, riveting it into position and then replace the weather strip and seven attachment screws. Be sure that an adequate application sealer is applied between the rubber and the trim plate
6. Sealer should be applied at all cowl seams and cowl vent body seams.

T. H. Bullard
Service & Parts Mgr.

Related posts:

1. Bulletin 60-181: Alpine Windshield Water Leaks
2. Bulletin 67-26: 1725cc Engine Oil Leaks
3. Alpine/Tiger Doors – The Inside Story

Rootes and Chrysler U.K. Passenger Cars

Download a pdf of this file here
Download an MSWord document here.

Related posts:

1. Chassis Codes Issued for Sunbeam Vehicles
2. Chassis Codes Issued for Hillman Vehicles
3. New Chassis Number Format: 1970 and after

Rootes and Chrysler U.K. Passenger Cars

A new vehicle identification format was introduced in July 1970.

Download a pdf of this document here.
Download an MSWord document here.

New chassis plate example:

Breakdown of details shown in Chassis No. box:

1st digit is the Plant Indicator (one letter)

• L = Linwood
• R = Ryton

2nd digit is the Series Year (one letter or figure)

• H = H Series
• G = G Series
• 3 = 3 Series

Next 3 digits indicate Product Code (group of three numbers)

IMP RANGE	G SERIES	H & 3 SERIES
Hillman Imp Basic	423	423
Hillman Imp De-Luxe	413	413
Hillman Imp Super	443	443
Sunbeam Sport	593	593
Singer Chamois	543	-
Sunbeam Stiletto	302	302
Hillman Husky	482	-
Hillman Imp Van	463	-

ARROW RANGE	G SERIES	EARLY H SERIES	LATER H & 3 SERIES
Hillman Minx	012	-	-
Hillman Minx Estate	082	-	-
Hillman Hunter	053	-	-
Hillman GT	041	-	-
Singer Vogue	353	-	-
Singer Vogue Estate	383	-	-
Hunter De-Luxe Saloon	-	063	064
Hunter De-Luxe Estate	-	085	160
Hunter Super	-	074	075
Hunter GL Saloon	-	058	059
Hunter GL Estate	-	087	150
Hunter GLS	-	-	040
Hunter GT	-	830	031
Humber Sceptre	112	112	090*
Sunbeam Alpine	389	389	100
Sunbeam Rapier	342	342	190*
Rapier H120	391	391	120

* On cars for France these numbers are replaced by L2S (Sceptre) and LSR (Rapier) for H Series and AAE (Sceptre) and AAD (Rapier) for 3 Series.

AVENGER RANGE	G SERIES	H & 3 SERIES	3 SERIES
Avenger Basic Saloon	-	201	-
Avenger De-Luxe Saloon (Export – Sunbeam 1250/1500)	211	211	-
Avenger De-Luxe Estate	-	280	-
Avenger Super Saloon (Export – Sunbeam 1250/1500 De-Luxe)	221	221	-
Avenger Super Estate	-	283	-
Avenger G.L. (Export – Sunbeam 1250/1500 Super)	231	231	-
Avenger G.T. (Export – Sunbeam 1500 G.T.)	251	251	-
Cricket Sedan	219	219	-
Cricket Sedan (with options)	239	239	-
Cricket Wagon (Estate)	-	289	-
Sunbeam 1250 S.C. (E.E.C.)	-	-	226
Sunbeam 1250 T.C. Saloon (E.E.C.)	-	-	236
Sunbeam 1250 T.C. Estate (E.E.C.)	-	-	286
Sunbeam 1500 T.C. (E.E.C.)	-	-	256
Avenger G.L.S.	-	-	252

Next group of six numbers is the SERIAL No.

• Commencing 000001 = Ryton
• Commencing 600001 = Linwood
• Commencing 900001 = C.K.D.

The letters and numbers from the SERVICE CODE box reveal the following:

1st letter is the ENGINE CODE and tells you which engine is fitted.

• A = Imp, 875 c.c. Low Compression
• B = Imp, 875 c.c. High Compression
• E = Avenger, 1250 c.c., twin carb. High Compression
• F = Avenger, 1250 c.c., single carb. High Compression
• G = Avenger, 1500 c.c., single carb. Low Compression
• H = Avenger, 1500 c.c., single carb. High Compression
• K = Avenger, 1500 c.c., twin carb. High Compression
• L = Avenger, 1500 c.c., twin carb. Low Compression
• M = Arrow, 1500 c.c. Low Compression
• N = Arrow, 1500 c.c. High Compression
• P = Arrow, 1725 c.c. Low Compression
• Q = Arrow, 1725 c.c. High Compression

The 2nd letter or number is the TRANSMISSION CODE and tells you which transmission is fitted:

• A = Automatic transmission with standard axle, Avenger H Series
• B = Manual transmission with 3.70 : 1 axle, Arrow
• C = Automatic transmission with 3.70 : 1 axle, Arrow
• D = Overdrive with 3.70 : 1 axle, Arrow
• E = Manual transmission with 3.89 : 1 axle, Arrow
• F = Auto transmission with 3.89 : 1 axle, Arrow
• G = Overdrive with 3.89 : 1 axle, Arrow
• H = Manual transmission with 4.22 : 1 axle, Arrow
• J = Automatic transmission with 4.22 : 1 axle, Arrow
• K = Overdrive with 4.22 : 1 axle, Arrow
• N = Manual transmission with standard axle, Avenger H Series
• S = Standard transmission, Imp
• W = Manual transmission with non-standard axle, Avenger H Series
• X = Automatic transmission with non-standard axle, Avenger H Series
• 1 = 4.37 : 1 axle with Manual transmission, Avenger 3 Series
• 2 = 4.37 : 1 axle with Automatic transmission, Avenger 3 Series
• 3 = 4.11 : 1 axle with Manual transmission, Avenger 3 Series
• 4 = 4.11 : 1 axle with Automatic transmission, Avenger 3 Series
• 5 = 3.89 : 1 axle with Manual transmission, Avenger 3 Series
• 6 = 3.89 : 1 axle with Automatic transmission, Avenger 3 Series

The 3rd letter is the OPTION CODE and indicates the vehicle was fitted with the following:

• A = No other option
• B = Servo brakes
• C = Servo brakes and radio
• D = Servo brakes and heavy duty suspension
• E = Servo brakes, heavy duty suspension and radio
• F = Radio
• G = Radio and heavy duty suspension
• H = Heavy duty suspension

The 4th letter is the MARKET AREA the vehicle was intended:-

• H = Home, R.H.D.
• E = Export, R.H.D.
• X = Export, L.H.D.

Paint Codes

The PAINT CODE box contains a group of three numbers which refer to the colour of paint used on the vehicle. (a full list of the colour codes will be added at a latter date).

The TRIM CODE box contains a group of three numbers which indicate the colour of trim used in the vehicle and they are as follows:

• 000 = Non-standard
• 701 = Black
• 707 = Eucalyptus Green
• 708 = Saddle
• 709 = Red
• 713 = Light Blue
• 714 = Vellum
• 715 = Green Opalescent
• 716 = Pewter Opelescent
• 717 = Tan Opelescent
• 718 = Blue Opelescent
• 719 = Olive Opelescent
• 720 = Turquoise Opelescent
• 721 = Block Opelescent
• 722 = Beige Opelescent
• 724 = Vellum Print

The TYPE CODE box repeats the Product Code, and Engine Code, with the addition of transmission alternatives:-

• 2 = Manual
• 3 = Overdrive
• 4 = Automatic

Related posts:

1. Chassis Codes Issued for Hillman Vehicles
2. Chassis Codes Issued for Sunbeam Vehicles
3. Chassis Codes Issued for Humber Vehicles

Rootes and Chrysler U.K. Passenger Cars

Download a pdf of this file here.
Download an MSWord document here.

Related posts:

1. Chassis Codes Issued for Humber Vehicles
2. Chassis Codes Issued for Sunbeam Vehicles
3. New Chassis Number Format: 1970 and after