Contact the Authors: “Tiger Tom®” Ehrhart and Chuck King

The following explanations, facts and plots provide supporting details for the article published in Tiger East/Alpines East Rootes Review and other marque newsletters.

The additional charts on this site illustrate some of the more significant variables we were able to quantify. Our intent is to show the more significant differences of the various variables we measured.

Our Appeal

We ran out of hot weather and our testing is incomplete. However, these tests have helped identify the key areas for improving cooling on a Tiger and Alpine as well. Building on the variety of information and experience gained, we can now focus on more specific objectives to improve cooling.

In the Summer of 2001, we are prepared to identify and quantify more specific improvements. We plan to test a variety of Fans/Radiators/Pulleys/Water pumps/Shrouds/Air restriction and ideas that you make available to us. The ideas can come any time. But we need the physical items for typically a couple of weeks in the heat of the summer so we can include them in our comparison test. We will do our best to coordinate testing with the availability of the components.

General Test Program Notes

1. Idle tests were run until engine temperature reached approximately 215 ° F, the point at which the fuel began to boil in the carburetor fuel bowl and affect the idle speed, AND/OR the temperature stabilized within one degree for three consecutive two minute measurement intervals.

Air Flow Enhancement

1. A Ford C9DZ-8600-A Maverick 6 cyl cut down to 14″ diameter was used for most of the testing. It is our opinion that the actual idle temperatures and times would have been lower and longer respectively throughout the tests if a more standard 15″ Maverick fan had been used. However the outcomes of the various tests clearly identify significant improvements even when using the 14″ fan.
2. An enclosed fan shroud fabricated from a Ford Taurus shroud was used for much of the testing in this test program while using a 14″ Maverick fan. Airflow testing shows an enclosed shroud does improve airflow through the radiator. Our enclosed shroud was not as deep (front to back) as a stock shroud. This provided an improved axial and radial position relationship with the fan blade over stock with respect to radiator/fan gap and blade tip and shroud edge. We also know that a 15″ fan can flow considerably more air than a 14″ fan. We ran out of hot weather and were not able to incorporate the enclosure principles into a stock shroud and test with a larger diameter 15″ fan. We are not providing data on this arrangement because the fabrication modifications of a stock shroud and performance measurements have not been completed.
3. Airflow testing of the Derale # 17015 fan indicated its performance was significantly superior to all other fans tested. Unfortunately we were unable to compare its performance at idle and interstate speeds because the hot weather left us. We know it performs better and recommended it accordingly. We plan to quantify its performance in the summer of 2001.
4. The sheet metal brace located across the lower front of the radiator obstructs approximately 10% of the radiator surface area, about three rows of tubes. We recommend it be removed. We have done some testing without this brace obstructing the radiator. Our best results are without this brace in place. The addition of additional bracing and a deflector at the base of the radiator to the bottom of the valance are believed to offer improved cooling. However, we have not done a comparison test at idle or interstate speeds to quantify the effect. We plan to do a comparison test in the summer of 2001.
5. Engine compartment venting: Using streamers to identify air flow at idle, we observed large amounts of hot air EXITING the engine compartment and reentering the front of the radiator from two distinct sources. The openings in front of the horns and the gap between the radiator and crossmember.
   At highway speed the openings in front of the horns adversely effect cooling because air is forced to ENTER the engine compartment. Consequently air expelled from the radiator is reduced because it must compete with the additional volume of air to exit an already restricted engine compartment. Blocking the opening in front of the horns is a valid old time Tiger cooling improvement that should be first on the “To do” list.

Plot interpretation

These plots are intended to demonstrate specific issues as explained by comments with each plot. Values and differences shown on the plots are for reference purposes only. They indicate significant difference(s) or interactions between a given variable or variables as measured. The reader should not attempt to extrapolate data for any reason from a plot. There are significant testing factors that must be factored into the meaning of the data that may not be apparent to the reader. For this reason, the reader is encouraged to contact the authors for additional explanations or detailed test data used to create the plots. Our interpretation is provided for each plot. Of course, you may have some of your own………but be careful.

In general, the plots clearly show that there is no one fix for cooling a Tiger. Efficient cooling requires a balanced cooling system design related to water and air management. It is a common practice in the Tiger community to focus on radiators for improved cooling. Clearly, as evidenced from our results, radiators, high tech or Godzilla monster of any kind do not provide significant cooling improvement with out lots of airflow. Our studies support the need for improved airflow. Airflow is a complex process of interactions between the radiator, fan, shroud and overall body constraints. We have made strides in identifying key areas to improve and have noted them in this report.

Improved Tiger cooling can be expected over a stock cooling system when a variable shown on a plot that produced significant improvement is incorporated in a Tiger, but the magnitude may be different than that shown on the plot. Maximum cooling will be achieved when all the changes listed in the Summary of results are implemented.

Reminder

When evaluating your cars cooling performance, verify the temperature sending unit, instrument voltage regulator and gauge provide accurate results as a system before making decisions, bragging or complaining about effectiveness of your cooling system.

General Plot Notes

When reviewing the plots, keep the following in mind:

1. Many plots show only the upper portion of the temperature/time spectrum since the purpose is to only compare differences at the extremes (temperature and Time).
2. The test # provides traceability to detailed test data used to create plots.
3. Some plots have multiple variables with emphasis only on the most significant outcome. Remember, each test measurement evaluated only one variable. The reader should contact the authors if additional interpretation is desired.

• Stock VS Air Flow Enhancements
• Interstate Driving LOOP Better Performers
• Interstate Driving LOOP
• RADIATOR Comparison
• FAN Comparison
  Flexlite 1314 VS Maverick
• Open/Closed Hood & Increased Air Flow VS Radiator Change
• Radiators VS Increased Air Flow
• Water Pump Pulley
  Stock VS ’81 Fairmont 6 cyl.
• Radiator / Crossmember Gap
• Redline Water Wetter
• Electric Fan Comparison

Variables Tested

Radiators

• Stock
• Griffin Single row Aluminum, Single pass (1 1/4″)
• Fluidyne, Single Row,Triple Pass (2″)
• FX Single Three Row Single Pass (1 7/8″ )
• CX Core Four Row, Triple Pass (2″)
• CX Core, Four Row, SinglePass (2″)

Pumps

• Stock stamped steel paddle
• Milodon Hi Vol, #16230 (Fits Tiger but requires longer mounting bolts, causes fan to be closer to radiator than other pumps, inlet close to fan belt)
• Stewart Hi Vol Stage 1, #16103, Mfg. claims 41% incr. vol.

Pulleys

• Stock: 5 7/8″ Diameter
• About 1978 to 1982 Ford Fairmont 6 cyl: 5 3/16″  Diameter (Pump hub should be pressed on 1/8″ further than stock location. Pulley fits standard Ford 5/8″ shaft.. Pulley hole must be enlarged to 1″ if used on a stock Tiger water pump hub)

Stress cracks emanating from mounting holes on Tiger water pump pulley are becoming more common. The problem is acerbated by the addition of increased radial loads from alternators, air conditioning, etc. Reinforce the hub in this area or change to a Fairmont hub, which already has the proper reinforcement.

Shrouds

• Stock
• Custom, fully enclosed: Fabricated from “Junk Yard Dog” Ford Taurus by Chuck King

Fans: Electric

• 10″ dia, 4 blade, Summit equiv # SUM-G4910
• 12″ dia, 10 blade, Perma-Cool # PRM-19008
• Other “Junk Yard” specials (See airflow data)

Engine Driven
(After-market fans fit 5/8″ Ford water pump shaft. They require enlarging to 1″ if mounted on a stock Tiger water pump with a 1″ hub.)

Stock Alpine I-II & increased pitch

• Stock Alpine I-II & increased pitch
• Stock AlpineV & increased pitch
• Stock Tiger
• Flex-a-lite #414 14″ diameter
• Flex-a-lite #1314 14″ Diameter
• Imperial #221615 15″
• Diameter

Derale #17015 15″ Diameter


Maverick 6 cyl & increased pitch
• Ford C9DZ-8600-A Maverick 6 cyl. Cut down to 14″ diameter
• Ford C9DZ-8600-A Maverick 6 cyl with increased pitch

We’ve moved this article.
Read Cooling the Tiger here.

Temperature vs. Time

Interstate Driving LOOP Better Performers

Click on the image for a larger one

These were the best Interstate performers.

by Dan Cameron

Originally printed 9/87

Many of our Tiger and Alpine members have spent a great deal of time, effort and money restoring their cars only to find that within a few months’ time that the once shiny exhaust system is beginning to rust. In a most recent effort to keep the underside of my Tiger as appealing as practical, I decided to hit this one head on and am pleased with the results. Surprisingly, it was pretty easy on the pocketbook as well. The procedure used was as follows:

• Have the exhaust headers and cone downs sandblasted to remove all paint, corrosion, etc. (approximately $20). For best results, try to handle the headers as little as possible prior to painting.
• Paint headers with VHT, 1350 degree high temperature paint (not engine paint). It is best to spray a light coat initially, and then follow it with two heavier coats, but don’t skimp. Drying between coats will help the curing process. (4 cans cost approximately $20)
• Next, purchase stainless steel mufflers of your choice. I used Midwest sonic turbo mufflers for their free flow characteristics and compact design without excessive noise. They have a 2″ center inlet and a 2″ offset outlet. When positioning the mufflers, the offset outlet is away from the center of the car.
• The next step, finding a good muffler shop, may prove to be the most difficult, however, it pays to be fussy. There is no substitute for smooth bends and clean welds. I used 2″, mandrel bent, aluminized tubing. This tubing is becoming commonplace and will maintain its metallic finish. With a little extra care on the bending machines, flattening the tubing where it passes through the frame is not necessary.
• Finally, bologna slices, chrome exhaust extensions were spot welded to the exhaust pipe tips. As an alternative, for that extra clean look purchase a longer variety of chrome exhaust extension (18-24″), drill a small set screw hole and split over present pipe-nice touch.

Editors note: An option to the VHT paint is to send your headers and pipes to Jet-Hot for bright durable ceramic coating. They will give you a quote over the phone at 1-800-432-3379.

Bob Wilson asked:

What are the USA part number equivalents to British part numbers for light bulbs, primarily the turn signal lamps? Help!

Tiger Tom replied:

Bob, I am not aware of any interchange list. I’ve seen some references in years past of a lamp or two but I a not aware of a list of popular lamp types.

Author unknown

My 1965 Tiger Mk I locks in gear, the shifter won’t move. It usually happens in city traffic when shifting up and down several times. All at once it just locks up, but I believe it’s almost always in 3rd gear. I usually just coast to a stop with clutch in or continue in third until the engine dies. If you just wait a while, jiggle it a lot, and oh yes, cuss a lot, it magically comes loose again until it happens again. I cannot reproduce the lock up by trying, so I can’t show it to a mechanic. Examination eventually located the culprit; the gate mechanism at bottom of shift lever.

This gate mechanism has slots that require a pin to be properly aligned (as determined by shift lever position) causing the selected lever to be actuated. This gate is what forces us to shift in the classic “H” pattern. However, we are sloppy shifters and shift like a “Z’ when going from second to third. The end result is a worn and sloppy gate which allows the shift lever to actually try and select two gears or not completely disengage one gear before going into the next gear. Ok, so what’s the fix?

Simple, sort of.

• Remove shifter.
• See other tech tips.
• Send to a repair specialist like Dan Williams in Franklin North Carolina.
• Or, disassemble yourself, repair the gates, replace the pin and install new bushings most worn parts are available if ordered from local Ford dealers.

NUMBER: 67-44
DATE: 3-31-67
GROUP: Engine
SUBGROUP: Oil Pressure Relief Valve

MODELS: Alpine V, Minx VI & Arrow
SUBJECT: New Oil Pressure Relief Valve

A new steel relief valve assembly was introduced in production from the Chassis Numbers shown below, having a thick fibre sealing washer under the head of the relief valve.

Alpine V – B.395 012220

Minx VI – B.006 045731

Arrow – B.051 006069

Should you encounter complaints of oil leaks from this fibre washer, it is recommended that the existing washer, approximately 1/8″ thick, is replaced by a thinner washer, 1/16″ part number 5058200. After fitting new washer, tighten relief valve to 15 ft. lbs. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

Check for any signs of damage to the threads of the relief valve and body; replace where necessary. This new washer will be introduced in production in the near future.

The new valve can be installed on up-to models by including the filter base, part number 5058202.

T. H. BULLARD
Manager – Service & Parts

NUMBER: 67-42
DATE: 3-30-67
GROUP: Engine
SUBGROUP: Oil Filter Line

MODELS: Tiger
SUBJECT: Modified Oil Filter Line Attaching Point

A new tie down clip has been introduced in Production to prevent possible rubbing of the oil filter line against the steering column. This change is effective from chassis number B382-001094.

It is recommended that the clip, part number 9179051, be fitted as illustrated in Fig. 1.

T. H. Bullard
Manager — Service & Parts

NUMBER: 67-32
DATE: 2-22-67
GROUP: Clutch
SUBGROUP: Master Cylinder

MODELS: Alpine V & Minx IV
SUBJECT: Modified Master Cylinder Main Cup

A modified master cylinder main cup is now available which will correct problems of periodic loss of clutch in heavy traffic.

The new main cup can be identified by its manufacturer’s number 3842-424 which is on the cup.

All master cylinders, part number 1223548, and the new overhaul kits, part number 5044629, currently supplied include the latest cup, part number 5044628.

T.H. Bullard
Manager – Service & Parts

NUMBER: 67-28
DATE: 2-13-67
GROUP: Body
SUBGROUP: Windshield Water Leaks

MODELS: Alpine V & Tiger 260
SUBJECT: Windshield Water Leaks

As a result of a recent investigation of windshield water leaks, it has been established that, in the majority of cases, leakage was due to an inadequate seal between the windshield frame and the ‘A’ post trim which carries the weatherstrip to the door seal. Before carrying out any windshield removal, it is recommended that the following procedure be put into effect:

1. Remove the seven screws which secure the ‘A’ post weatherstrip to the ‘A’ pot trim plate.
2. Carefully remove the weather strip and clean off the ‘A’ post trim.
3. Drill out the two attaching rivets.
4. Remove the ‘A’ post trim plate. Clean off any existing sealer and apply an adequate amount of sealing compound to the windshield frame.
5. Replace the trim, riveting it into position and then replace the weather strip and seven attachment screws. Be sure that an adequate application sealer is applied between the rubber and the trim plate
6. Sealer should be applied at all cowl seams and cowl vent body seams.

T. H. Bullard
Service & Parts Mgr.