MKing-63-SII-01

1963 Series II

MKing-63-SII-04

1963 Series II

MKing-63-SII-03

1963 Series II

MKing-63-SII-02

1963 Series II

MKing-65-SIVGT-01

1965 Series V GT

MKing-65-MKI-01

1965 Mark I

MKing-65-SIVGT-02

1965 Series IV GT

MKing-66-MKIA-02

1966 Mark I Alpine

MKing-66-MKIA-01

1966 Mark I Alpine

MKing-66-MKIA-03

1966 Mark I Alpine

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2. Photos
3. B.A.S.H. 2009 Photos

A visitor asked: How do you verify that a Tiger is for real and not a fake?

The easiest way to identify a “real” Tiger is to determine if it has been authenticated by the TAC process. If the car has been TAC’d, you’ll find a numbered decal behind the cubby (glove) box. TAC stands for Tiger Authentication Committee; a group of inspectors using inspection criteria to authenticate a Tiger body shell as being original (i.e. produced on the Jensen assembly line).
The STOA has a list of currently authenticated Tigers.

Many Tigers have not gone through this process yet so you are now left to your own  visual feature assessment.   It’s too complex a process to get into here. What I would like to do is put you in touch with a knowledgeable owner in your area. Please advise general area where you need support and I will provide you with a contact person.

Or join our Forum and poke around to see if others have had similar questions.  You don’t have to be a club member to take advantage of the great info being shared in the Forum.

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Author unknown

My 1965 Tiger Mk I locks in gear, the shifter won’t move. It usually happens in city traffic when shifting up and down several times. All at once it just locks up, but I believe it’s almost always in 3rd gear. I usually just coast to a stop with clutch in or continue in third until the engine dies. If you just wait a while, jiggle it a lot, and oh yes, cuss a lot, it magically comes loose again until it happens again. I cannot reproduce the lock up by trying, so I can’t show it to a mechanic. Examination eventually located the culprit; the gate mechanism at bottom of shift lever.

This gate mechanism has slots that require a pin to be properly aligned (as determined by shift lever position) causing the selected lever to be actuated. This gate is what forces us to shift in the classic “H” pattern. However, we are sloppy shifters and shift like a “Z’ when going from second to third. The end result is a worn and sloppy gate which allows the shift lever to actually try and select two gears or not completely disengage one gear before going into the next gear. Ok, so what’s the fix?

Simple, sort of.

• Remove shifter.
• See other tech tips.
• Send to a repair specialist like Dan Williams in Franklin North Carolina.
• Or, disassemble yourself, repair the gates, replace the pin and install new bushings most worn parts are available if ordered from local Ford dealers.

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NUMBER: 67-42
DATE: 3-30-67
GROUP: Engine
SUBGROUP: Oil Filter Line

MODELS: Tiger
SUBJECT: Modified Oil Filter Line Attaching Point

A new tie down clip has been introduced in Production to prevent possible rubbing of the oil filter line against the steering column. This change is effective from chassis number B382-001094.

It is recommended that the clip, part number 9179051, be fitted as illustrated in Fig. 1.

T. H. Bullard
Manager — Service & Parts

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1. High Pressure Oil Line Failure
2. Bulletin 67-23: Tiger 260 Fan Blade Clearance
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NUMBER: 67-28
DATE: 2-13-67
GROUP: Body
SUBGROUP: Windshield Water Leaks

MODELS: Alpine V & Tiger 260
SUBJECT: Windshield Water Leaks

As a result of a recent investigation of windshield water leaks, it has been established that, in the majority of cases, leakage was due to an inadequate seal between the windshield frame and the ‘A’ post trim which carries the weatherstrip to the door seal. Before carrying out any windshield removal, it is recommended that the following procedure be put into effect:

1. Remove the seven screws which secure the ‘A’ post weatherstrip to the ‘A’ pot trim plate.
2. Carefully remove the weather strip and clean off the ‘A’ post trim.
3. Drill out the two attaching rivets.
4. Remove the ‘A’ post trim plate. Clean off any existing sealer and apply an adequate amount of sealing compound to the windshield frame.
5. Replace the trim, riveting it into position and then replace the weather strip and seven attachment screws. Be sure that an adequate application sealer is applied between the rubber and the trim plate
6. Sealer should be applied at all cowl seams and cowl vent body seams.

T. H. Bullard
Service & Parts Mgr.

Related posts:

1. Bulletin 60-181: Alpine Windshield Water Leaks
2. Bulletin 67-26: 1725cc Engine Oil Leaks
3. Alpine/Tiger Doors – The Inside Story

Rootes and Chrysler U.K. Passenger Cars

Download MSWord document of this file here
Get a PDF of this file here.

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Printer friendly files available as below:

• Download the autocross classifications for Tigers and Alpines here
• Download the autocross classifications for Alpines only here
  
• Download the autocross classifications for Tigers only here

Autocross Classification Summary - Tiger

Please see the full rules for complete classification requirements

Autocross Classification Summary – Alpine

Please see the full rules for complete classification requirements

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by anonymous

Question:

Does the Tiger have any “weak” points that will come to light with increased horsepower? For example, I have heard that rear spring mountings are weak and will break under stress.

Answer:

In preparing a Tiger for autocross or just for safety’s sake for street use, the front cross member welds should be reinforced, particularly around the shock towers. The CAT shop notes do a very good job of outlining these points to be reinforced. The reinforcement of all welds on the suspension mounting points is a good idea. These can fatigue and fracture over the years. It is also a good idea to reinforce the frame cross member around and underneath the openings for the Tiger exhaust pipes by welding 5/32″ thick plates to the three sides of the frame box. Cutout cardboard templates were required because it is a tricky geometry problem to get the plates the right shape.

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by Dave Johnson

Finding shocks to fit the Tiger or Alpine is getting more difficult.

The original Armstrong Heavy Duty Shock had the following dimensions:

• Extended Length 12″
• Collapsed Length 8″
• Top fitting stud
• Bottom fitting 1 1/2″ ring with 3/8″ bushing sleeve
• No Dust Cover

There have been several shocks listed by other tech tips that can be modified to fit. I found that the Monroe GasMatic shock 5824 fits the specs with the exception that the sleeve is 2 1/4″ long with a 7/16″ bolthole.

I tried cutting the sleeve but found that it was made of hardened steel. Even if I could cut it, I would still have to enlarge the hole in the mounting bracket from 7/16″ to 3/8″.

Using appropriate size sockets, and a vise, press the old sleeve out of the old shock. A 1/2” inch pipe ‘T’ fitting was just the right thing to press the old sleeve into. It held the bushing in place but allowed the sleeve to be pressed out.

Using the same sockets, vise, and pipe fitting, slowly press the new sleeve out of the new shock. I used silicone spray to lube the sleeve as I pressed. I would press forward about 1/2″ and then release the pressure on the bushing. By looking into the pipe’s hole you can watch your progress. Stop when the new sleeve is just starting in the new bushing (about 1/16″). Switch from the socket to the old sleeve and continue pressing the new sleeve out. It won’t take long until you will have replaced the wrong size sleeve with the correct size old sleeve. Your shock is now ready to mount using the original bolts and bracket.

The trick is to use the old sleeve to push the new sleeve out. If you push the new sleeve out first, the hole in the bushing will collapse to about 1/4″. You’ll never get the old sleeve in the new bushing without tearing it.

FURTHER NOTE: If you have an emotional attachment to the original Armstrongs and don’t want to remove the sleeve, most auto parts will carry a 7/16″ by 1 1/2″ sleeve. But you’ll have to enlarge the mounting hole and use a 7/16″ bolt.

Editors note: The latest Monroe Gas-charged shock absorber that I have found that matches these dimensions is Part # 20814 and are called “GasMatic GT”. These shocks were originally designed for the Ford Pinto and Mustang II and may be sold under many other names.

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1. Bulletin 66-5: Alpine V Oil Cooler Pipe Fouling
2. Gas Shocks for Tiger
3. Bulletin 67-12: Alpine & Minx Noisy Clutch Shaft Pilot Bushing

from CAT

The threads on most of the components of your Tiger’s brake system are fragile at best. It is easy to cross-thread a line into a cylinder, for example, and, once the threads are damaged, the chances for a good, leak-free connection are very small unless you can repair the threads.

One thing I do before refitting any of the brake (or clutch) lines is carefully run a 3/8-24 bottoming tap into the cylinder and run a 3/8-24 die over the fittings on the line to clean out and renew the threads.

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